What is warm-season grass?
Warm-season grasses dominate the southern U.S. and parts of the transition zone. These grasses grow best when it's hot, peaking between 80–95°F, and they can handle temps over 100°F without flinching. But once it drops below 50°F for more than a few days, they go dormant and turn brown until spring.
If you've got bermudagrass, zoysiagrass, St. Augustinegrass, centipedegrass, or bahiagrass, you're in the right place.
Not sure? The grass ID guide can help.
Sunday Tip:
If you're in a transition zone or further north, check the cool-season lawn care guide instead.
Spring
March
Things are waking up.
Clear out whatever accumulated over winter: sticks, leaves, that one lawn chair that blew over in January. You want to see what's happening underneath. Look for the first patches of green. That's your signal that the lawn is coming back.
Get your mower ready. Sharpen the blades if you didn't do it in the fall. For bermudagrass, do a low mow to remove the dormant growth and help the soil warm up faster. Run your irrigation system and check for leaks or busted heads.
You can start watering once you see active growth, but don't overdo it. Aim for about an inch per week total, applied in one or two deep waterings. Morning is best if you can swing it. And if frost is still possible where you are, stay off the grass until it thaws.
Common spring issues: Large patch shows up early in centipede, St. Augustine, zoysia, and Bermuda. Spring dead spot can hit bermuda. Jumping worms start moving.
Sunday Tip:
If you winter overseeded with a cool-season grass, then you should keep up with regular mowing and irrigation until late spring.
April
Now we're rolling.
Your lawn should be greening up. Once it hits about 60% green, you can put down your first fertilizer. That usually lines up with average temps staying between 60–70°F. Don't rush it. Fertilizing too early just feeds the weeds.
Mow as needed. Check the mowing height chart if you're not sure where to set your deck. Leave grass clippings where they fall. Grasscycling puts nutrients back in the soil and saves you time.
Water in the morning, between 6–10 a.m. if you can. Less evaporation, lower disease risk.
What's showing up now: Spring weeds are emerging. Dollar spot and large patch are active. Pythium root rot can hit bermudagrass. Ants and fire ants are waking up, too.
May
Full speed ahead.
If you overseeded for winter, now's the time to let that cool-season grass go. Mow it shorter and back off on water. Your warm-season turf will take over.
Growing common bermudagrass? This is a good window to overseed. Bermudagrass is one of the few warm-season grasses that seeds reliably. Wait until daily temps average 70–90°F and keep the soil moist until you see germination. Usually around 3 weeks.
Temps are climbing. The 90s aren't unusual in parts of the South by now. Pay attention to local water restrictions and let the rain do the work when it comes.
Trouble spots: Crabgrass and dallisgrass are germinating. Dollar spot, large patch, and pythium are still around. Fire ants are fully active.
Summer
June
This is your lawn's favorite time of year.
Warm-season grass thrives in the heat. Growth is strong, color is good, and the lawn can handle a lot. If you've got bare or thin spots, now's the time to fill them in. Many warm-season grasses don't seed well, so plan on sod, plugs, or sprigs. The warm-season planting guide breaks down your options.
Compacted soil? High-traffic areas? You can aerate now. Just make sure temps will stay in the 80–95°F range for a few weeks after, so the lawn recovers fully.
Keep mowing high. Keep grasscycling. Check your irrigation for problems. Skip the sprinklers if rain is on the way.
Pests and disease: Chinch bugs like hot, dry, sunny spots. Pythium foliar blight and dollar spot are possible. Summer annual weeds are flowering.
July–August
Peak summer is here. Your lawn is in its element.
This is the golden stretch of the year for warm-season grass. Keep doing what you're doing: mow high, water deeply in the morning, grasscycle. If drought hits and you can't water, the lawn can go dormant for a while without dying. It'll bounce back when conditions improve.
Reduce foot traffic in stressed areas. Raise the mowing height during dry spells.
If you've still got bare spots, late summer is your last good window to fill them before fall. New grass needs time to establish before temps drop.
Still around: Annual bluegrass may start showing up late. Pythium foliar blight. Grubs, billbugs, chinch bugs, fire ants.
Fall
September
The lawn is slowing down.
Growth is tapering as nights get cooler. You don't need to mow as often. That's fine. Mowing stresses the grass, so easing up is actually good for it.
Cut back on water, unless you're still seeing serious heat. If you haven't applied your final fertilizer yet, now's the time. You want it down while the grass is still actively growing.
Weeds are vulnerable right now. Spring and summer annuals are going to seed. Perennials are storing energy for winter. Pull what you can, spot-treat the rest. Whatever weeds you knock out now will have a harder time coming back in spring.
What's happening: Summer annuals are dying back and easy to pull. Pythium is still possible. Grubs, billbugs, and fall armyworms are active.
October
Warm-season grasses are winding down.
Do your last mow when the grass stops growing. Mulch leaves into the lawn rather than raking. It returns nutrients to the soil. Heavy piles that block light should go, but a thin, well-chopped layer is fine.
If you’re far south and want green through winter, you can overseed with cool-season grass. It's extra work and extra water, so it's not for everyone. But if you want a green lawn year-round, this is when to start.
Late-season issues: Pythium root rot in bermuda. Winter annual weeds establishing. Ants, jumping worms, fall armyworms.
November
Dormancy is here (or close).
Mulch any remaining leaves before you put the mower away. Clear toys, debris, and anything sitting on the grass. Standing moisture invites disease.
If you're overseeding or have year-round growing seasons, keep up your care routine. Otherwise, shut off irrigation and store your equipment. Winterize your irrigation system before the first freeze. Flush the water out to prevent cracked pipes
Prep the mower before storage. Empty the gas tank if it's a gas mower. Remove the battery if it's electric. Clean the deck and blades. Ten minutes now saves hours of hassle in March.
Last pests: Jumping worms. Winter annuals appearing. (Not much else.)
Winter
December–January
Your lawn is dormant. You're off the hook.
Stay off frozen grass if you get ice or snow. Foot traffic compacts moisture and can damage turf. Shovel snow before it freezes. Keep salt away from the lawn and garden beds.
If you notice low spots where water keeps pooling and freezing, make a note. That's a drainage issue to fix in spring.
Overseeded for winter? Keep mowing and watering. In the deep South where grass grows year-round? Same. Everyone else can take a break.
February
Almost spring.
The lawn is still dormant, but not for long. Stay off icy grass. Manage salt.
If you overseeded, maintain your routine. Otherwise, use this time to get ready. Review what worked last year. Get a soil test if you haven't recently. Order what you need so you're not scrambling when green-up hits.
Heads up: Winter annuals like chickweed and henbit will start emerging as temps warm. Pull them or spot-treat before they go to seed.
Seasonal warm-season cheat sheet
Spring (March–May)
- Weeds: crabgrass, dallisgrass, spring annuals
- Disease: large patch, dollar spot, spring dead spot, pythium root rot
- Pests: jumping worms, ants, fire ants
Summer (June–August)
- Weeds: summer annuals, dallisgrass
- Disease: dollar spot, pythium foliar blight, large patch
- Pests: chinch bugs, grubs, billbugs, fire ants
Fall (September–November)
- Weeds: annual bluegrass, winter annuals
- Disease: pythium foliar blight, pythium root rot
- Pests: fall armyworms, grubs, ants
Winter (December–February)
- Weeds: chickweed, henbit
- Disease: none active
- Pests: none active
Need help identifying something? Check the weed ID guide, lawn disease guide, or turf pest guide.
Build your warm-season plan
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Cited sources
Essential Tips for a Healthy Lawn, Part I. University of Minnesota Extension.
Lawn care calendar. University of Minnesota Extension.
Managing Weeds in Warm-Season Lawns. Clemson University College of Agriculture, Forestry and Life Sciences.
Mower Blade Sharpness Effects on Turf. Agronomy Journal.
The Homeowner's Lawn Care and Water Quality Almanac. Cornell University Extension.
Turf Rust. Cornell University Plant Clinic.
